I surfed! It was so awesome! There's just this moment when you catch the wave and jump up onto your board, pivoting and balancing and angling the board all at once. You're paying attention to a million little things, and suddenly you realize that you are surfing, and you feel like the goddamn Superman. Gnarly!

I can't wait to do it again!

I went to the gym here in Mililani Town (thank goodness I sprung for the any-gym membership at 24hr fitness). It was still crowded at midnight, and humid as all hell. I must've refilled my water bottle two or three times in the course of my chest/back day. Still struggling with working up to body weight bench presses. Still deadlifting 45s. Think I could skip up a bit, as soon as I'm sure I have the form right.

Ran out of protein shake powder. Having to buy protein bars with my ritualistic trek to 7-11 in Hale'iwa every morning. Eking out on island nigiri as much as I can.

Today was a high surf advisory, and now I can hear why. The beach house (as you can see from facebook/twitter pictures, and pictures here once I upload them all when I get home) is maybe 100-120m from the shore, depending on the tide. Today has 15-20 foot swells, and the crash from them hitting the shore is literally making the house shiver in its bones, and the roar is as loud as conversation. Spray from the occasional plume hits the windows and doors. It's amazing.

I fly back Friday. Must Come Back Here. Love it here.